Tröllaskagi, Iceland 🇮🇸 2022

Date: 22nd July 2022

Travelled: 90 kms from Dalvik to Hofsós  

Visited:  Ólafsfjörður and Siglufjörður  

Stayed: Camping Hofsós, Isk2600, N65.89810, W19.40600 

Budget: 58 days @ €102 per day

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After last night’s never ending sunset, it’s a grey morning once again. It’s not raining, so where happy. We are planning a slow start this morning, we lay in much later than normal. Have coffee and fruit before walking over to the leisure centre for a swim.

We pay our Isk400 pp (senior rate). The facility is first class, the main pool is only 25m, complimented but a series of spas, sauna and a well equiped gym. We do a K, then hang in the spa until we’re wrinkly. As you would expect we are knackered, so it’s back to the Hymer for a big breakfast and coffee.

It’s mid-day by the time we’ve got ourselves going again. We service the Hymer, say goodbye to our neighbours and roll out the gate. Our guide book recommends a stop at Gisli, Eirikur and Helgi, for the fish soup. It’s a small timber cafe just up the street.

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The cafe is full, we stand there quietly in the queue, slowly moving toward the counter, like a Seinfeld episode. Pam steps forward and asks can she get the soup take-away, the cafe goes quiet in fear of the Soup Nazi’s response. I just look around giving my best she’s not with me look..

Two fish soups, they come with sides of salad and home made bread, then a piece of apple and blueberry pie for Rons (that’s later on, in the Australian vernacular) Isk6,000.

This is a good start for the fabulous day exploring the Tröllaskagi Peninsula .

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The first of several long narrow tunnels we pass through today. Obviously a nice wide, new tunnel is preferred but these were toll free and free is for me.

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Our first stop is the village of Ólafsfjörður. It stands on the dark waters of the Eyjafjörður 15 kms north of Dalvick. We find a parking spot for the Hymer and head off for a walk.

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Trolls seem to be the theme as we wander Ólafsfjörður. Trolls adorn many of the simple houses in the village. The port area is extensive with lots of industrial buildings, but they all seem to be closed today. It may be a school holiday thing.

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There is a small campsite here in Ólafsfjörður but I think we’ve done the place in 30 minutes, so we continue driving north on route 82. Yes, two more long tunnels through the mountains and we arrive at Siglufjörður.

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Siglufjordur, Norðurland eystra, Iceland

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Siglufjörður is the most northern town on the Tröllaskagi Peninsula. Surprisingly the campsite is right in the middle of town, so obviously campers are appreciated. We park just outside the campsite and go exploring. It’s a much busier and bustling place, but there are a lots of tourist wandering about just like us.

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Our guide book recommends the Herring Museum, so why not. We pay our Isk1200 pp (seniors) and head into the dark, hoping our night vision returns quickly. Siglufjörður was the centre of Herring fishing in Iceland for many years. The industry lasted for some 80 years, but by the 1960’s overfishing had decimated the population and herring disappeared from Icelandic waters. The Icelanders blamed the Norwegians and visa-versa, but the herring never returned. Anyway we enjoyed the museum and felt sorry for the herring.

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We’ve given Siglufjörður a good look, so it’s time to move on once again. We turn the Hymer back onto the 76 through another tunnel and continue driving the Tröllaskagi Peninsula. We have explored some beautiful scenery in our years of motorhoming but it would not be an understatement to say our afternoon driving the western side of the Tröllaskagi was one of the best.

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When the sun shines, so does Iceland. We eventually find Hofsós and our campsite for the night. Our guide book tells us Hofsós has one of the most scenic pools in Iceland. We’ll be down there at 9 am to find out.

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Michael + Pam