Tourist Route 13 Helgelandskysten (part 4), Norway 2017 ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ด

Travelled: 151 kilometres from Braset to Lรธding along TR13 in the Nordeland.

Visited: The Svartisen Glacier (ferry NOK170pp) and the Maelstrom at Saltstaumen.

Stayed: Lรธding, near the marina (free), N67.29644, E14.71639

I’ll start with the map again for reference.


We enjoyed a quiet evening overlooking the Svartisen Glacier.  A small ferry operates between Braset and Svartisen, from there it is possible to walk or cycle close to the glacier.  So our mission for today is the Svartisen.  However there is no need for an early start, its out of season, so the first ferry isn’t until 11am.

A morning photo of the Hymer looking across the fjord to the Svartisen Glacier.
Our ferry awaits. In actual fact there were 20 of us waiting when the ferryman suddenly appears 1 minute before departure time and starts the engine. Don’t wait to be asked to go on board or you’ll be left behind.
So here we are crossing the lake, it’s cold this morning so we donned the Gortex (including fleece liners) long hiking pants and beanies. Pam also has an electric blanket and two hot water-bottles.
In all seriousness this is a beautiful place !
Off the ferry, you can walk or take a bicycle. It doesn’t look like 3.5 kilometres as you step off the boat but looks can be deceptive, we were glad we rode rather than walked.
The glacial lake is a much paler blue than the fjord beyond.
This photo should give you a feel for the track.
More of a steep boulder strewn track than a walking path. The climb up to the face of the glacier is only short, climbing about 100 metres in the 500 metres path. It’s quite difficult in spots and you soon get hot.

You cool down quickly standing next to big slab of ice, so the jackets go back on. The sun nearly comes out revealing the colour of the stone in contrast to the lake.
Making our way back downs a lot easier.
Our adventure at Svartisen complete we catch the ferry back to the Hymer. True to form the ferryman appears at 1 minute after the departure time and starts the engine.
The weather clears a little in afternoon as we drive north along the coast, providing some lovely views.
We stop in a picnic area near Storvik for a short walk and a much needed nap.

Refreshed after our stop we continue on the Saltstraumen hoping the tide is running so we can experience the maelstrom.  According to the blurb it has 400 milion cubic metres of water pass through every 6 hours, so we want to have a look.

This panorama should provide a wider view of the maelstrom at Saltstraumen.
One of the whirlpools or cauldron created by the water flowing past at 20 knots.

Having watched the maelstrom for half an hour its time to find a stop for the night.  Our journey along TR13 Helgelandskysten is complete.   We go on a short distance to Lรธding finding a little layby near the marina.

The view from our overnight parking spot, not the best we’ve had but far from the worst.

Michael and Pam

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