Date: 25th May 2026
Travelled: 44 kms from Mestia to Ushguli in Georgia ย
Visited: Ushguli and Mestia
Stayed: Mestia Paliani Hotel
We wake to sound of a cow bell as the locals walk across the bridge. The mist is hanging a little lower this morning. We had an enjoyable very social dinner last night, the table set for 13 red lemmings in the dinning room. I think we are the only guests staying at the Paliani.
The hotel is small just three level perhaps 5 rooms per level. They just set a huge assortment of food on the table both for dinner and breakfast, eat whatever you fancy. Georgian custom requires food to be left after a meal, seems like a waste to us but to a Georgian itโs a sign of a generous host. At least thatโs what our guide tells us.
Above a video I took yesterday and forgot to upload till the bell reminded me. Gives you a more panoramic view of Mestia.
Below some photos from our morning walk around the village.
Todayโs adventure is exploring Ushguli. After breakfast a small fleet of 4WD people movers arrive at the hotel and weโre on our way. The 44 km journey takes almost 90 minutes with a single stop at the โLove Towerโ pictured below.
Of course the love tower myth is your usual Georgian Romeo and Juliet type of thing. In any case the tower was a fun stop especially the ladder made of sticks and there were toilets.
The road from Mestia to Ushguli makes yesterdayโs road to Mestia look good, the video tells the story.
Ushguli is in far north west of the Svaneti. As far as a road extends in Georgia, less than 10 kms from Russia or โour big brother to the northโ as our guide constantly describes it.
Without being rude this is Georgian hillbilly country. They only legislated against wife stealing or bride kidnapping in 2014. That is you fancy a single woman, you just kidnap her and make a deal with her family, the girl or woman gets no say. Blood feuds are common as is murder.
All that aside the village is a post card.
Having watched the poor conscripts stand at attention for 20 minutes they finally stand easy and we can explore St. Maryโs Church and get some pictures of the altar and frescoed ceiling, pictured above.
We have a long lunch in Ushguliโs only cafe. Itโs warm, the food excellent, Pam has the vegetable soup and I knocked into a Kubdari, a Svaneti meat pie, the origin of the meat Iโm unsure it was heavily salted and spiced. It was good and we had the best coffee since leaving home. No one is in a hurry to leave and go back up that road again.
We walk off the food exploring the back lanes, towers and taking some more photos, well Ushguli is done. The journey home was much quicker, like a horse heading home to the feed shed. The dexterity of our driver texting on his phone, crossing himself at every roadside cross. and passing other vehicles on blind corners was reassuring.
Another big dinner with lots of leftovers awaitsโฆ
Michael + Pam
One thought on “Ushguli, Georgia ๐ฌ๐ช 2026”
Thatโs on a level with The Leyland Brothers adventures!
Great post ๐