Date: 21st May 2026
Travelled: 150 kms from Yerevan to Gyumri in Armenia ย
Visited: ย Zvartnots Temple, the Cathedral of Ejmiatsin and Gyumri ย
Stayed: Radisson Hotel Gyumri
After 3 nights in the Armenian capital weโre back on the coach to Zvartnots Temple. Half an hours drive west of Yerevan itโs not far from the airport.
Construction of Zvartnots Temple or Cathedral (flip a coin) began in 643, under the guidance ofย Catholicosย Nerses III the Builder. It was dedicated to St. Gregory, the cathedral was built on a location where a meeting between Kingย Trdat IIIย andย Gregory the Illuminatorย was said to have taken place. The cause of the structure collapse in the 10th is a matter of conjecture.
In any case we enjoyed wandering the ruins and the museum.
Back on the coach once again we drive on to the Cathedral of Ejmiatsin (Etchmiadzin). Etchmiadzin Cathedralย is theย mother churchย of theย Armenian Apostolic Church, located in the cityย knownย as Etchmiadzin (Ejmiatsin). Our guide tells the original church was constructed at the turn of the fourth century, it isย usually consideredย the firstย cathedral built inย ancient Armenia, and often regarded as theย oldest cathedral in the world.
The Pope and Patriarch of the Armenian Apostolic Church have their seat here. The Cathedral grounds are expensive, they include a number of smaller chapels and teaching seminary, restaurants and accomodation.
So off we goโฆ
Pictured above a couple of sneaky photos from inside the Cathedral.
Our guide tells us the Armenian Apostolic Church features a unique dual-clergy system, divided strictly betweenย married parish priests (Kahana) and celibate priests/monks (Apegha). While married priests tend to community needs, celibate priestsโwho take lifelong monastic vows and wear a distinctย vegharย (cowl)โdedicate themselves to scholarship, teaching, and serving as the church’s bishops.
Below the tomb of Khoren Muradbekian, then Pope and head of the Armenian Apostolic Church who died suddenly on April 6, 1938. Our guide tells us he was poisoned by his house keeper but Wiki says he was taken by KGB agents from his residence at Holy Etchmiadzin, never be seen again.
After an excellent lunch at a huge food court where back on the road again, the freeway to Gyumri is excellent. 90 minutes later we roll into
Gyumri was long ruled by the Russians who knew the city as Alexandrapol. As we wander the centre of the city we find it clean, well maintained. Away from the centre many of the Soviet era apartment look unloved awaiting an earthquake. Moving on we find All Saviours Church across the square. A service is happening so we quietly have a look around and take a photo whilst wondering how long the priest conducting the service can chant without taking a breath. Weโve enjoyed exploring but itโs time to enjoy a drink and chat about our day. We sit on our drinks watching the locals go about their evening and we stay and enjoy dinner there as well. Damn its a bit chilly in this morning, but I donโt care thereโs a coffee machine and a toaster. Michael + Pam
