Michael and Pam's Travels Our European Motorhome Adventures and other Travels

Chios, Greece. 2015 ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ท

Night 1

Travelled: 10 klms from Cesme to ferry port, then 10 klms by ferry to Chios, followed by 1 klm in Chios Town to the carpark.
Visited: A walk around Chios Town
Stayed: A car park just south of the port, free, no service. N38.365775, E26.143389 Just a dirt carpark, but convenient if your on the late ferry and need a quiet spot for the night.

Night 2

Travelled: 33 klms from Chios to Emborios
Visited: Chios town centre then Mavra Volia
Stayed: Bus parking area behind the village, free, no services N38.18917, E26.02767. We parked up near the restaurants in the shade during the day, but from the looks the locals were giving we decided to move to the parking area at dusk.

Night 3

Travelled: 5 klms from Emborios to Komi, Chios
Visited: Athena’s Temple, Emborios World Heritage site and the village of Komi
Stayed: Carpark just off the beach in Komi, free, no services. N38.20137, E26.04246. Filled with water at the Temple, free.

Night 4

Travelled: 54 klms from Komi to Mesta and back.
Visited: The ancient villages of Pyrgi and Mesta
Stayed: Back to the carpark just off the beach in Komi, free, no services. N38.20137, E26.04246.

Budget: 36 days @ โ‚ฌ97 per day (including gifts and balloon rides, but excludes ferries).


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We arrive in Chios at last light.  The small harbour seems to glistens with the lights from the many nearby restuarants and cars driving along the quayside.  Anyway enough looking about, the ramp is down and there’s lots of shouting and waving.  No one can get off the ferry until the Hymer is reversed of the ferry and onto the quay.  Soon enough we are going through the process of re-entering the EU.  Then there’s the Hymer and lots of question, ‘your Australian, why is your vehicle GB’. Questions about insurance and so on.  In the end, he gives up and waves us through.


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As the ferry entered the beakwater I noticed a carpark at the southern end of the quay with a couple of trucks parked there.  As it was now dark and we don’t like driving at night any further than necessary, we drive along the quay and into the carpark.  It’s a bit rough and dirty, but it’s level and has a water view.  An hour later the carpark has pretty well emptied and we have a quiet night.  Our first morning without the call to prayer blaring though loud speakers at 5.15 am for some time.

We have been having trouble with the Hymer’s fridge for almost two weeks now.  Working well on 240v but very intermittent on gas.  Whilst it lights up ok and holds a flame, it doesn’t chill properly.  Having Googled the problem, rung Dometic and had a fiddle with it, I get the tools out and remove the burning assemble and give everything a clean out.  Re-assembled it fires up and we’ll see how it goes.

We need a Greek data sim and having done a little research we head up town to the Vodafone shop and get that sorted, then it’s the tourist information for a few maps and recommendations.  Pam wants some swim shoes as the stony beaches are hard on the feet, so we both get a pair.  We then go to the shipping office and book our passage for Piraeus on the overnight ferry Monday.  It been a successful morning all round.  Even better the freezer compartment is icing up on our return.


Greece


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It’s 5 O’clock anytime after mid-day in Greece.  It’s less than an hours drive from Chios Town to Emborios on the southern coast.  Famous for its black rock beaches and crystal clear waters, it has a beautiful aspect just watching the time pass.
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Emborios is a pretty little place, we have grilled sardines and pork kebabs for dinner.  With a glass or two of dry white wine and a Mythos, very cold of course.  We stay overnight in a little carpark behind the shops, free of course.
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We coffee and have some fruit for breakfast, have I told you the peaches and nectarines in Greece are just as good as Turkey.  We decide to drive up the coast and explore the next village which has sand beaches we have been told.  A couple of kilometres out of Emborios we see a turn off to a World Heritage Site, called Athena’s Temple.  Another unexpected adventure !
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So we pay our โ‚ฌ1 to the girl in the office, she looks a little surprised.  We may be her first customers today and quite possibly the week.  It’s in an isolated spot and it’s a long walk up the mountain.  It’s very interesting and well worth the walk, lots of ancient ruins of houses, shrines and a temple at the top of the walk.
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Even without the ruins it’s a fabulous walk with the most wonderful views.  Back at the ticket office I ask the lady if we can fill the camper with water, no problem and it’s done.

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We drive another kilometre around the hill into Komi. It has a long sandy beach facing the Aegean.  It’s not Cronulla sand but it’s clean.


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The beach at Komi in the late afternoon. The chairs, umbrellas and wifi are free if you buy a drink.
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We adopt Komi as our base for a couple of days.  The food’s good and the alcohol reasonable, there are showers on the beach which are handy for camper car people like us.

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As tempting as it was to spend the another day in Komi lazing on the beach drinking Mythos we decide to drive some of the southern villages and drink Mythos there.


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Our first village visit is Pyrgi.  Known for its artistic etching in the lime render that makes every house in the village unique.  The patterns symbolise a variety of themes, ie luck, life and happiness.
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Pyrgi village Church and bell tower.  The town square was full of people (mostly elderly) sitting in cafes chatting and socialising.  Apparently a villager passed away 40 days ago and it’s custom to celebrate their life with a special service and a get together, so we were told.
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The star symbols under the balconies are for good luck.  The area is also famous for its mastic trees.  To be honest we have never heard of the healing and remedial qualities of  mastic oil, but it’s highly regarded in Greece.  As the day warmed up the whole valley had a slight eucalyptus smell about it, apparently from these trees.  Which are more like a stunted olive trees.  Grown on terraces formed into the hillsides.
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Just to top of our visit we found this lovely little Church at the end of an arched alleyway.  It original build date is unknown but it’s design and features are documented in a manuscript written in 1463.
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We say goodbye to Pygli and continue west on our adventure.  Pulling into the local BP servo to get some diesel, I capture a picture of the local mechanic’s current work in progress.  The little ute is a 3 wheeler by the way.

Greece


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We drive in the village of Mesta, less than 10 kilometres from Pygli.  It’s amazing that two villages only a short distance apart can be so completely different in the layout and architecture.  This beautiful cottage stands just outside the old walled village.
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Mesta is a labyrinth of laneways, mostly arched in rough stone. It’s a cool escape from the mid-day heat.
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The Church also seems quite unique, note the windows.
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The Church forecourt, the use of black and white stones to create the mosiac. It reminded us of several churches in the Spanish Pyrenees.
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We find plenty of bling in Greek Churches everywhere.
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We sit at this little restuarant and enjoy souvlaki with a dry white and a big bottle of Mythos.  The souvlaki on fresh baked pita…mm.  Interestingly they include a handful of fries with the lettuce, tomatoes and onion and whatever meat you select.


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Anyway it’s time to say goodbye to Mesta and head back to the beach at Komi for a swim and afternoon nap.

Another quiet afternoon on the beach drift into an evening drink and dinner at the bar.  We enjoy a quiet night and a good sleep.

It’s Monday morning or so says my iPad, I focus a little and decide I don’t care.  After rising a little late, we walk along the beach and have a swim.  It’s very quiet this morning, the season here is closing we think and there’s absolutely no one around.  By late morning we decide to head back to Chios town, the cupboards are empty and we should stock up a little before tonight’s ferry to Piraeus.


Michael and Pam


PS:  The news bulletins during our visit were full of of the tragic stories of drowning at sea as people try to enter the EU through Greece.  The flip side of those stories is the bitterness of the local Greek people as tourism collapses in the islands like Chios that border Turkey.

The parks and town square in Chios town are where many of these illegal immigrant wait seeking papers that will allow them to travel on out of Greece.  Almost every shopkeeper we spoke to would ask where we came from and go on to complain about business and the influx of foreign immigrants.


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Just up the beach from our swimming spoh in Komi, it’s not the only abandoned inflatable boat we see during our visit.

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