We spend the afternoon driving through valleys, lochs and hills in The Cairngorms. The A road is narrow and winding, as the shadows lengthen we decide to take a short cut. Taking a B9009 north we head for Dufftown, Dave’s spiritual nirvana . I have never heard of Dufftown, other than the Simpsons. Dufftown is apparently a key town on the whiskey trail through the Scottish highlands. The B9009 is sealed but only a single lane for long sections, quite a challenging drive. At one stage we are sure we’re lost, we appear to be driving up some farmers driveway only to turn just before we go through his barn.
We arrive in Dufftown just before dusk, it appears deserted. The town itself is like many others through Scotland, mostly local stone, neat and tidy. From the top of town there is a wonderful view of the surrounding valley. We have a walk along Conval Street and find a Restuarant with a B&B above. It’s a lovely old building and we book two rooms. The host has a whiskey bar and we have a tasting before heading off for dinner.
Pam and I rise early and head of for our morning walk. The morning is still and misty as we walk down the hill. The smell of whiskey is heavy in the air. The further we walk the stronger it becomes, we pass a lovely old Church and cemetery then cross the River Spey before heading back to Dufftown for breakfast.
We have booked into the 10am tour of the Glenfiddich Distillary. It’s a really enjoyable hour culminating with tasting of the 12, 15 and 18 year whiskey. I have always been a bourbon drinker but I think I may have developed a taste.
Where on our way again, bound for Inverness. The highlands are truly picturesque but we are soon on the rugged Scottish north coast.
We found Inverness to be a traffic black hole, there seemed to be hundreds of cars circling just like us looking for a parking spot. Many of the public buildings are restored and the pedestrian mall a pleasant walk. We head off again this time to the castle and score a parking spot within sight of a pub just down the road.
We lunch, beer and wine at the Castle Tavern, then walk the Castle grounds. Inverness Castle was only constructed in 1836, but apparently a castle of some type or other has existed on the site since the 10th century. It is a handsome red stone structure with beautiful lawns and views of the River Ness. It is currently used as the Sheriff’s Court and goal before heading off across the River Ness and turning south to follow the river towards the Loch.
As we cross the River Ness, are path is blocked as a swing bridge opens to allow some small boats to pass down river. It’s the first time I have every seen one in operation, in its time, quite an engineering feat, I imagine.
As we head sound the River Ness opens and Loch Ness begins. The afternoon is cold but dry and we only spot the odd boat. No Nessie. The Loch is 37km long and varies from 1-3km in width. It is very deep at over 700m in some points. The water look dark and univiting.
We stop briefly at Urqhart Castle which sits on the banks of the Loch and at the Loch Ness Museum which is little more than a tourist trap. We have the names of some B&Bs, but we are having no luck getting two rooms and continue south. We find a little B&B near Fort Augustus at the southern end of the Loch.
After settling into our rooms we head of to find a drink and dinner. Our first stop is the quad set of locks at the end of the Loch. This marks the junction of the a River Oich and Loch Ness. We chat with the Lock Keeper as several small boats make there way downstream. We soon decide that the view from the Loch Inn would be a little more comfortable and we settle in for a drink.
Pam and I are up early walking the shores of the Loch and the River Oich. It is still, quiet and a little mist is hanging here and there to add to the magic. The water of the Loch is ink black, it does not deter a family of swans from enjoying the morning.
We head back to the B&B for a full Scottish breakfast. The Sonas B&B is relatively small, a family home really. The proprietors are friendly but a little special. There are little notes with instructions about this and that everywhere through our room and the rest of the house. Breakfast was a very strict affair, no variation, no substitution. This culminated with the now famous red hot plate incident, often spoken of after a couple of drinks. We head south past Loch Lochy, Fort William and the Inner Sea. The scenery is wild and beautiful, but isolated with only a couple of ski resorts and the odd group of a couple of homes.
As we near the English border we see a sign for Lockerbie, the name rings a bell and we turn off.
We lunch in Lockerbie, then drive out to the memorial site just on the outskirts of town. The memorial itself and the tributes built by the families of those murders in 1988 are very moving. It doesn’t seem that long ago, but then the case is regularly in the news.
Anyway where off again and back travelling through Northern England 30 minutes later.
