Chaves, Portugal 🇵🇹 2019

Date: 6-7th August 2019

Travelled: 153 kms from Lindoso in the Minho to Chaves in the Trás-os-Montes Province of Portugal

Visited: Lindoso Castle and Chaves

Stayed: Chaves a private aire, €17 includes electric. N41.73523, W07.47231

Budget: 59 days @ €80 per day

It was only 15kms on to Lindoso. We arrived after 6pm and go straight to a recommended parking place just below the Castelo. The cloud is low and dark but at least it’s not raining, yet. So we jump out for a quick walk around the castle. Lindoso is only a few kilometres short of the Spanish border and the Castelo or more accurately fortress was part of Portugal’s defensive strategy in the 18th century.


The village of Lindoso has laid on the welcome mat.

Map of Lindoso, the icon on our parking spot



Some views of Lindoso from the Castelo’s bastion walls. The espigueiros (stone granaries) are typical to this isolated part of the Minho.


A short distance away the village cemetery. We haven’t explored a Portuguese cemetery before, so we take the opportunity.

We spend a quiet evening in the car-park with another motorhome for company. I hear rain at some stage during the night, but it’s not an issue. The Castelo Museum doesn’t open until 10am, so we decide to give it a miss and get an early start for Chaves.


A few kms later we are in Spain.


We re-fuel at Quintas as the diesel in Spain is 10-15 pence per litre cheaper than Portugal. The drive to Chaves takes another 3 hours and I don’t remember a section of straight road the entire way.

It is however very scenic from heavily wooded glen, deep gorges and the lakes (hydroelectric dams) along the Rio Cávado make for plenty to see. There is very little traffic other than around the touristy resort of Gerês.


Map of Chaves, the icon on our stop.


We decide on a paid aire in Chaves. We have not been on power for almost 5 weeks. The Hymer needs a good vacuum through and we have various things that need charging. Pam wants to do a load of washing, so we cough up. Given it looks like rain, if our walking options are limited by weather a stop with electricity close to town will help.

So we do a quick supermarket shop and settle in to the aire, before heading of across the bridge (below) to start exploring.


Chives stands on the Rio Tamega only a few kms from the Spanish border.


One of two Roman milestones that stand on the Ponte Romana. In the tourist office we are told all the Roman roads through Portugal and northern Spain were measured in distance from these markers.

It starts to drizzle so we retreat to the Hymer. After a refreshing beverage or two we extend the awning and get the Webber out. I BBQ a rack of pork ribs (American style) whilst Pam whips up a salad. Our neighbours look across jealously as they enjoy there baked beans on toast or escargot on a cracker as the case maybe.

It rains quite heavily overnight, but has slowed to a drizzle by breakfast.



The Town Hall with a statue of Alfonso looking sternly across the square.

Next to the town hall the tourist office has a little collection of Roman this and that, worth looking at on a wet day.


The tourist office tells us Maria is the oldest bakery in Chaves. Famous for Pasteis de Chaves, a flaky turnover filled with ground meat. Whilst they are not on the heart health approved list they are magnificent when you haven’t had a sausage roll for two months. However we think Maria’s Portuguese tarts are possible the best we have tried so far.

The drizzle is getting a little heavier now, we know the weather has beaten us, so we walk across the bridge once again to the Hymer. Whilst we could spend the rest of the day waiting on the weather, everything is clean and fully charged, so we decide to ready the Hymer and go on to our next adventure, Guimarães.


Michael and Pam


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